Author: Justin Emery

After walking for 18 days I was finally approaching a town, Fort William. I was looking forward to finding somewhere to stay and sleeping in a comfy bed.

Thursday 4th August 2016

This was a long flat walk into Fort William, mostly along the Caledonian Canal. Although it should have been easy, it was exhausting because I was already tired, plus it was further than I thought. I picked up a couple of chocolate bars on the way at the Cameron Clan museum.

As I approached Fort William I had first phone signal in days, and even Internet – I discovered the accommodation was all booked up.

This was really frustrating. It was high tourist season, and the nearest vacant accommodation was miles away from the town. I wasn’t the only one to assume I could just roll up and find somewhere to stay – many people were walking into the Tourist Information Centre looking for accommodation only to be directed to a camping shop to buy a tent. Although I had been used to sleeping in rough conditions, I had assumed I’d get a proper rest from that at Fort William. I was really knackered and just wanted to settle somewhere, but now I’d have to tramp around for a bit longer.

Nevertheless I walked into town, bought a pizza, then went to sit in library followed by Mac + Cheese at Morrisons cafe. Finally went to camp site 2 miles away in Glen Nevis.

Distance: 20.2 miles [view on map]

Spending: £55

Mood: 🙂 -> 🙁 -> 😐

Wednesday 3rd August 2016

I woke up to a wet and midgy environment near the River Loyne. After packing up, over a pass to Glen Garry. Next walking along tracks through forestry, and into the hills on a clear but wet path. Had to ford numerous rivers – in one case it was too deep but I was able to shimmy across deer fencing. Over the tallest Bealach [mountain pass] of the trail, there was no path. This was extremely exhausting, more so given that my snacks were limited.

Finally a walk around Loch Arkaig to a bothy – Invermallie, on the way meeting a guy who had been working on it, then meeting five lads from Warwick inside with the fires roaring.

Distance: 19.5 miles [view on map]

Spending: £0

Mood: 🙁 -> 🙂

Tuesday 2nd August 2016

Packed up a little earlier and left at 10:30. Stopped at Glen Affric Eco-hostel to buy snacks, the lady also made me a coffee and we had a little chat. Used their eco-toilet (reed-based?) and eco-toilet paper. Then over a clear but boggy/wet path down to The Cluanie Inn for veggie haggis, chips, hot chocolate, coke, and “cranachan” – a traditional Scottish desert: layers of raspberry and cream with oats sprinkled on top, and of course: a dash of whisky. With some snacks to take away it came to £35!

Walking in the evening felt blissful, partly because of atmospheric surroundings but also a feeling of comfort after eating well.

Distance: 18.7 miles [view on map]

Spending: £40

Mood: 😐 -> 🙂

I felt better than I had for some time that evening, mainly because I had eaten so well. People expect that walking will be constant bliss in some kind of meditative state, but when you are pushing yourself to walk 12 hour days with a heavy pack over rough terrain, wading through rivers, and being bitten by midges, it’s rarely like that. But that evening it was. I was comfortable after my feast, and this felt like a bit of a revelation: it is necessary (or at least very helpful) to be somewhat comfortable for the mind to be at peace.

This is a good point to mention that all the titles for my blog posts were invented one year ago in my journal. At that point I wasn’t considering whether my sister’s birthday was a suitable title for a blog post… but it’s not bad!

Monday 1st August 2016

Unfortunately I was nowhere near anywhere so couldn’t phone or text my sister on her birthday. First a walk along a good track, then a section without a path down to Maol-bhuidhe bothy, where I met a bloke doing Cape Wrath Trail. He was thinking of stopping there for the day, a good choice given that some kind soul had left half a bottle of whisky!

Onwards for me, over a decent path down to Iron Lodge then up the Falls of Glomach – not as impressive as they should be for their size. Stopped at three walled ruin next to a small loch, without tarp because of clear sky!

I did however get inside my bug net, because of the midges!

Distance: 17.4 miles [view on map]

Spending: £0

Mood: 🙂 -> 😐

Sunday 31st July 2016

Shopping and  cooking breakfast made for a late start – left after 1pm. A tough start over wet and overgrown land, then a better track through forestry and a pony track down to Craig.

By now the sun was shining which re-energised me so I decided to continue rather than stop at the bunkhouse. The sun followed me up into the hills before setting. Now I was walking in the dark and finally got to Bendronic Lodge bothy at 23:30. A lovely bothy, with toilet, and I had the place to myself!

Distance: 21.9 miles [view on map]

Spending: £30

Mood: 🙂

Saturday 30th July 2016

Packed up a bit late, after trying to avoid midges as best I could. Began with a fairly easy walk up to Loch an Nid, where I made a curry during a dry spell. The dry spell quickly turned wet!

Next a bit more track followed by pathless sections, and a bit of height (finally came down to the enormous Lochan Fada). From here a good track but very long.

A bothy listed in guidebook was now in ruin, so on to Kinlochewe Hotel, which had space in bunk house.

It was really a wet day and I was getting quite miserable in the constant rain. I was relieved to be able to have a good shower and then get warm and dry.

Too late to eat in pub but had a pint, and a bar of caramel shortbread. Had whisky with Glaswegians in bunkhouse kitchen.

Distance: 20.3 miles [view on map]

Spending: £23

Mood: 😐 -> 🙁 -> 🙂

Friday 29th July 2016

Started the walk from Knockdamph, an easy start but more difficult up the valley as no path. Continued over steep pass, over 500m [above sea level], also tough. Down to Inverlael, via “Siberia” forestry. First view of west coast.

Decided to continue on and make more progress. A steep but pleasant climb on “coffin road” and gradual decline into Corrie Hallie – according to the guidebook, there is nowhere to camp, but I found a spot near road below a field fence. Midges were bothering me again.

Distance: 20.9 miles [view on map]

Spending: £0

Mood: 😐 -> 🙂 -> 😐

Thursday 28th July 2016

Up early, walked to Oykel Bridge. Continued on forest track. Stopped at “School House” bothy for lunch – yogurt, nuts, dried fruit, cheese, crisps.

Continued on, fording a stream (only knee deep) and stopped at Knockdamph bothy. It was cold so I got in sleeping bag, and shortly fell asleep – must have had almost 12 hours.

The bothy was spacious, but damp. It had two fireplaces, but no wood nearby.

Distance: 15.3 miles [view on map]

Spending: £0

Mood: 😐 -> 🙂

Wednesday 27th July 2016

Had a decent breakfast at the Cask and thanked owner for his hospitality (and the modest price). Then walked 12 miles down to Lairg, had lunch at Nip Inn – soup and ciabatta. Bought snacks at the garage then walked over The Ord hill.

Much of this walking in the morning was near Loch Shin – the largest in the county of Sutherland. Loch Shin was large enough that it could be considered an obstacle on the route. My guidebook gave two routes around it: I took the easier route via Lairg. The guidebook advised this route in wet weather: and given the number of times I had struggled to cross rivers up until this point, I decided that it must be wet weather. It also allowed me to restock at the garage.

Continued on road. The rain was pouring down, and my jacket was starting to leak. I had a blister on the bottom of my foot. Near Rosehall, I went to see a forest track car park, and found a log cabin information hut with chairs and table. I sheltered from rain, and ended up sleeping there.

Distance: 21.6 miles [view on map]

Spending: £30

Mood: 🙂 -> 😐

I was aiming for The Crask Inn today –  I knew from my guidebook that this was one of the few places to stay on the route in the far north of Scotland. I was looking forward to a nice bed and some good hot food with fresh vegetables! What I didn’t know was that the owners had semi-retired and were open opening at the weekends…

Tuesday 26th July 2016

Awoke to bothy, which I hadn’t yet seen in daylight. Made tea using teabags someone had left.

Walked up to the Crask Inn – a difficult climb, then having to ford a stream, and bog.

The Crask was closed but the owner saw me and invited me in for a drink. He explained the inn wasn’t really open – his wife was away and she was the better cook! But after I explained my situation he agreed to put me up for the night – this included a 3 course meal. Another guy turned up, touring Scotland in his Land Rover. Had too much coffee – couldn’t sleep, so read about highland clearances.

Distance: 7.5 miles [view on map]

Spending: £60

Mood: 🙂 -> 😐 -> 🙂

My stay at The Crask was a fantastic experience. There is something about the remoteness of the far north of Scotland that makes all interaction seem more meaningful. Commercial interests are still present, but feel very much secondary – and I felt this most of all at The Crask Inn. The owner of The Crask kindly opened up the inn when he saw the state I was in after 3 days in the wilderness. He cooked a three course meal, served ale in the cosy little bar, and cooked a fantastic breakfast in the morning. I didn’t ask the price for any of this, but didn’t have to. He wasn’t even counting – as I was leaving he just made up a very modest total to cover his costs.